to the sea, it is
our fastest flowing river. Even though it passes many fishing lodges and
Whiskey Distilleries, the river retains an atmosphere of real solitude and
remoteness along the upper and lower stretches.From the heart of the Mondaliath Mountains the River Spey is filled with the
melting snow and rainwater that runs off the Cairngorms, twisting and turning
its way down the Spey Valley to the sea, it is
our fastest flowing river. Even though it passes many fishing lodges and
Whiskey Distilleries, the river retains an atmosphere of real solitude and
remoteness along the upper and lower stretches.
There is much to be said about the rivers environment and the mountainous scenery viewed from it as you travel by, the river offers an unrivalled multi-day whitewater experience and bounteous wildlife, enough to keep everyone happy.
Although the trip described is unusually long, the river can be paddled over a long weekend in ideal conditions. The trip was deliberately planned so that paddlers could relax and enjoy everything the river could offer. Incorporating one and a half-free days, the trip began at Newtonmore and finished in Spey Bay.
The early arrival of everybody decided that to shuttle the cars to Balliefurth the night before we started our first days paddle was appropriate. This had proved to be a wise move, everybody was relaxed and we could concentrate on preparing boats and breaking camp.
For the previous three days there had been continuous rain, but that morning the weather was glorious and the rivers water lever looked high. Starting our trip, as so many others had done before us from Newtonmore's riverside campsite, we began a very pleasant start to a successful week.
The use of poles we had taken with us proved unnecessary, due to the unexpected height of the water. We passed through several easy shingle rapids and narrow channels, fallen trees added to the negotiation of the river between Newtonmore and Loch Insh; this was just enough to warm us up for our later escapades in the week.
Below Kingussie the river widens deepening a little, and the mix of
wildlife, with views across towards the Cairngorms, provided an excellent
wilderness atmosphere. Birds seen on the first day included several Buzzards
calling and displaying above our heads. Several 
Ospreys were seen, with a Peregrine Falcon chasing Lapwings over the river and
across Insh Marsh, Goldenye and Goosander already had young on the river
searching for food. There were several species of Wader filling the air with
song and territorial disputes.
Entering Loch Insh everybody was in high spirits, and beginning to show the early signs of a good suntan, we paddled our way across the loch to the Water Sports Centre for our first night of camping. Meals and showers out of the way we enjoyed a beautiful sunset over the Loch and round an evening campfire we shared a box of wine, indulging in a few silly songs before settling down for the night.
" The quantity and variety of wildlife must be seen to be believed, I'd really recommend it". Alison Cooke
Waking to the welcome of the sun, we felt the repercussions of the night
before, but this had not deterred a team member observing a Deer drinking at
the waters' edge earlier. Observing the debris on the tide line of the Loch had
made it clear that the water level had 
dropped
through the night, making us wonder what effect this would have on the river. A
strong offshore breeze made the paddle from the Water Sports Centre across the
Loch to the river choppy.
Leaving the Loch behind us we approached the road bridge, an Osprey was perched in the dead branches of a low pine tree beside the waters edge, alongside it's large nest, which could be seen in a nearby tree. Its partner was sitting tight incubating the eggs. Through the day several fallen trees were found in the river, it was decided that we should line our boats alongside one fallen tree as it was thought to be too dangerous with heavily laden boats. There were several short shingle rapids and a few narrow bumpy channels to contend with throughout the day. Although the water level had dropped this had not caused us any problems, as the river was beginning to swell again.
Everyday the river's character would change, as did the scenery viewed from it as we passed by. The landscape was still dominated by the high Cairngorm plateau displaying a patchwork quilt of snow covered gullies. Lunch was taken at Aviemore and a wander into the town for ice cream before setting off further down the Spey.
Approaching Boat of Garten, we viewed our first interesting rapid, then when everybody was happy we descended one by one safely. Arriving at the town's Road Bridge, we had to face a half mile portage to the campsite. Hot, sticky and weary our portage trolleys were much appreciated and a stop half way for another ice cream was needed.
"Exciting water, beautiful countryside, marvellous company, what more can I say. I wish it had lasted another 90 miles". Alistair Girling
A short paddle to meet up with our cars parked at Balliefurth Boat Croft. The day remained dry and warm, a light breeze developed mid morning that brought our simple sails and umbrellas out to help us on our way. With the Cairngorms now behind us the tree-lined river became broader and deeper. There were no rapids or fallen trees to contend with providing us with a very relaxed short day's paddle.
Arriving at the Boat Croft, a delightful little campsite tucked away, at 2pm
we relaxed for the afternoon, collecting firewood for the evening campfire.
Whilst enjoying our campfire we 
were entertained
by the landowner, Mr. McPherson, training his Border Collies in a nearby field.
Later he joined our group, sharing a few tales and stories with us as we
huddled around a bright campfire until well after dark.
Looking forward to a free day, I had intended on going for a walk. This was not to be. We had to find a suitable egress point on the river near Blacksboat disused railway station. Searching the river up and down brought no success, so it was decided to telephone the Factor responsible for allowing access from the river at Blacksboat. Many people, including the Moray Council, had told us that permission would not be granted, but much to our surprise we received it. The Factor was delighted that we had contacted him. This lead to a mad dash late afternoon, around the shops for suitable food for our BBQ that evening, and supplies for the next few days on the river. That evening, under a home-made shelter, we enjoyed our evening campfire and BBQ.
Rising early to a cloudy and damp start we prepared to shuttle our cars, this time to Aberlour. This took almost two hours, and because of the 18 miles we had to paddle, some thought this was going to be too much. But the river had now become Britain's fastest, with plenty of grade two, nothing technical just big and bouncy.
The weather remained damp and cloudy but it did stay warm. Leaving Balliefurth you soon meet your first fishermen and their loyal, ever watchful ghillies armed with walkie-talkies.
Entering an area famous for its distilleries and salmon beats, the river
passed many fishing lodges and car parks etc. Here were many rapids, but two of
note, the first was 
called the 'Washing
Machine'. Here the River Spey joins the River Aaron and channels all the water
down a narrow shoot on a tight a corner with a good drop. The second rapid is
called the 'Blacksboat Rapid' a sharp two metre drop down a very narrow funnel
shaped channel which creates some large standing waves. Some of us had so much
water in our boats at the bottom of the 'Washing Machine' that a fisherman
laughingly asked if we had caught any fish as he had no luck.
This stretch of the river is described as picturesque, but to me it was artificial, with its suburban atmosphere of closely cut turf on both banks, which were reminiscent of Wimbledon's tennis courts.
At Blacksboat we were greeted by a ghillie that had been expecting us. From the river we had a 200-yard portage to a disused railway station siding. I shall always remember this stretch of river for its many rapids rather than its natural beauty. The evening stayed damp, but warm and we were lucky that an unused engine shed was open allowing us to hang up our wet kit to dry overnight.
"The most memorable thing's that I enjoyed about this trip was watching the Salmon jump around our canoes, some were large fish. The other was the good company I paddled with. Thanks guys!" John William Hands
"The most exciting (scary) bit for me, was seeing first John and then Mark drop from view into the seething maelstrom of Blacksboat Rapid, OH DEAR, no turning back now!" John Parminter
A damp, but bright start to the day, improved to become warm and sunny on another beautiful stretch of the river. Our first rapid of note today was called 'knokando' or No Can Do. It looked far more intimidating that it actually was, which were a set of three simple drops around a tight right hand bend. One by one all descended the rapid safely, inspecting each drop as we progressed. There are many short rapids and channels to keep you entertained as you travel down.
As you paddle you find yourself looking down hill and travelling at great speed. Finishing at the town's Victoria Suspension Bridge we had a short shuttle of vehicles and kit to the campsite where we found Red Squirrels foraging between the tents and caravans.
We had no sure plans to paddle to the sea on this trip, but it was decided the previous night by everyone, that we should go for it and do it. So after shuttling the cars once again we began our final stretch of river to the sea, like the first day this gave me a plenteous feeling of solitude as the rivers character changed dramatically. We had left behind the fishing lodges and riverside car parks full of big and expensive cars, to an atmosphere of wilderness.
There are no notable rapids, but there are plenty of shingle rapids and numerous twisting channels. The riverside cliffs and crags stained a deep red, we travelled under several old and new elaborately decorated bridges. For the last two miles several islands were inhabited by Common Terns who had nested upon them, the birds fishing the river alongside our boats as we passed by. As we looked back, now a long way in the distance behind us, the Cairngorms could be seen supporting a heavy cloud of rain, but we were now being greeted by a strong fresh smell of the sea.
The rivers fast, strong flow continued all the way into the surf where we finished in Spey Bay. Here we experienced a great sense of achievement of what we had accomplished over the past days, and to finish here was a wonderful feeling. We were told that several Dolphins were patrolling the bay but we did not see them. An Osprey could be seen flying along the opposite shoreline as we drove off with thoughts of showers, shaves, empty stomachs and ONTARIO!
"A fantastic trip from start to finish, the organisation was superb". Mavis Clark
"I am sure that a lot more people will be paddling the Spey next year as I have told our canoeing buddies how good it was". Robert Clark
Words and pictures by Mark Feather
You can see more that Mark does by visiting his website using the link below.